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Review: Relais de Chambord, France

Review: Relais de Chambord, France

French wines and majestic chateaux in the Loire Valley

If you’re looking for a relaxed yet incredibly elegant and luxe weekend away, look no further than the Loire Valley in central France. Throughout the valley, there are over 3,000 chateaux to visit and many vineyards producing wines of the region. It’s home to one of France’s most iconic castles, Chateaux de Chambord, a magnificent sprawling behemoth of a castle and the largest in the Loire.

The castle was built by Francis I from 1519-1547 and set in a beautiful 5,440 –hectare estate at the centre of a nature reserve. At the foot of the castle you can stay in the adjoining luxury hotel, Relais de Chambord, complete with rooms offering a majestic view of the fairy-tale chateau. This was where I made my home for three lovely days, waking up to a morning view through my window straight out of a period movie set.

Relais de Chambord is a wonderful haven of modern comfort, the lobby replete with light, airy windows allowing the hotel to meld beautifully with the countryside that surrounds it, and a gentle view of the Cosson River just several feet away. The interiors have been thoughtfully designed by French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, infusing the design with contemporary elegance and a deft creative hand. Everything is designed to maximise comfort and style while keeping true to the area’s history: the façade is finished in slate, reflecting the slate roofs of the chateau, and the interior artwork provides further nods to the area, from a wall of mounted antler sculptures to a unique collection of ancient watering cans.

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On our first day there, we received a private tour of the chateau, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site open to the public. The tour was a fascinating lesson in the architecture and construction of the chateau, unique for the period for its decorative purpose and filled with idiosyncratic features, such as a double helix staircase thought to be taken from one of Leonardo Da Vinci’s original designs.

The hotel also provides a range of excursions to entertain you throughout your stay. On our second day we were treated to a scenic drive through the valley in restored vintage classic cars. It doesn’t get more French than that. A stop off at a local vineyard provided the perfect wine-tasting intermission, where we learned more about how the local wines are produced, and experienced the characteristic crisp, refreshing whites and fresh, light-bodied reds of the Loire.

The accommodating staff can also arrange a variety of other excursions, including hot air balloon rides across the beautiful Domaine de Chambord, and gentle bike rides around the estate if you fancy exploring the bucolic area for yourself.

The hotel’s restaurant, Le Grand Saint Michel, is a lovely place to dine, and the view of the setting sun over the chateau through the windows provides an excellent dining companion. You can indulge in a five or seven course menu focused on local and seasonal ingredients, serving up ingredients farmed in the vegetable garden of Chambord itself. Head chef Marion Carraud, debuting her brand new menu on the second night of our stay, has honed the restaurant’s focus on the best of local gastronomy. Highlights of the menu included a light but thoughtful starter of salmon gravlax with Isigny cream and warm blinis, and a truly divine main fish course of roasted pike-perch on the skin, coated in white butter sauce alongside Martin Pouret. This can all be enjoyed alongside an elegant local wine list, from Cheverny to Puilly-Fumé and Touraine.

The rooms are designed with comfort in mind, airy and bright, with the castle view rooms providing the perfect reason to throw your curtains wide in the morning and let the sunlight flood in. If you’re looking for yet more comfort you can venture down to the spa, where excellent staff will provide you with a massage treatment before you make your choice between an outdoor hot tub with a view of the chateau and a stylish sauna. Or, why not both?

Anyone looking to experience the beauty of central France, from the peaceful and divine countryside to the layers of history entwined within its historic chateaux, should certainly add this one to their wish-list.